Sun...Sea...Art

I had not even realized what my idea of paradise was until I went to Aspat Beach yesterday.  Solida Beach Club is situated on its own private bay with acres of flat land that provides its occupants a variety of different lounging options.

From what I understand, the owner is a businessman from Ankara who is realizing the ultimate utopia by supporting the arts, history and nature in this proverbial gold mine instead of selling out to developers.   There is a beach area as well as a big, wide lawn that is littered with lawn chairs, hammocks and swings under palm trees or canopies.  But there is a catch to this paradise... you have to share the space with sculptures that were produced by artists at Aspat for Aspat.  I believe in August this Eden of delights turns into an artist's colony and the art work strewn throughout the grounds are the end-products of these activities.

Between swimming and lounging around, I walked around the premises and took pictures of whatever caught my fancy.  Unfortunately, I couldn't find the information for all the works, so some will have to remain anonymous for now.

http://aspat.com.tr/eng/index.html
Terma Resort Solida Beach Aspat,
Aspat, Turgutreis/Bodrum
Tel:  0252 393 8520
Fax: 0252 393 8522
info@aspatbeach.com
GSM: 0533 734 0426

Meysem Samsun, Halumce Bedrettinem, 2004

 

Berika Ipekbayrak

Nilhan Sesalan, Suslu Yaprak Agaci, 2003

Erdinc Bakla

Batu Siharulidze, Eagean, 2006

Ayhan Yilmaz, Isimsiz, 2003

Dibeklihan - An Amazing Art Village..

I am very lucky to have a wonderfully artistic cousin, Ozlem, that I grew up with who is always on the lookout for interesting places, to spend our little, stolen moments together.  We were fortunate to be in Bodrum at the same time this year and found one evening to runaway together, leaving behind our husbands and families to enjoy amusing and gratifying conversation amongst wonderful works of art and antiques at a fantasy palace...

Dibekli Han is on the way to Yalikavak from the Turgutreis road (turn right by Kipa); there is a small sign that says Yakakoy on the left close to the beginning of the road before the descdend into Yalikavak through the hills.
As far as I understand it, this has been the genius project of an architect couple from Izmir as a reaction to Bodrum being overrun by developers and the paparazzi culture.  What a way to protest...
It consists of a series of buildings, which are on small alleys and streets named after famous Turkish artists, including several art galleries, a flea market, shops selling different handicrafts and even a little museum, all full of artifacts from all over Anatolia.  The presentation of the artworks and the items for sale even the sidewalks are so creative that I tripped a couple of times from not looking where I was going.  The works on view were just as amazing as the place itself and the accompanying musics were so perfect.  My particular favorite was the sculpture exhibit on the open courtyard of Artist Erdinc Bakla - http://www.erdincbakla.com/English/

There is also a restaurant on premises Dibek Sofrasi that serves local Aegean and Anatolian dishes that seemed to be very popular.  Tables were hard to get and we didn't have time to linger; the food presentation was worthy of the rest of the place and there was suppose to be live music two or three nights a week.

Dinner is not the only option since they have a coffee house in the courtyard that served the most flagrant and appetizing cakes and cookies.
We had to leave before we could partake any of their offerings and be satisfied with feeding our souls but this place is on the top of my to-do list for next year.
Another exciting development is that my cousin's husband Mehmet of one of my favorite blogs http://mehmetuyargil.blogspot.com/ is suppose to have an exhibition of his photographs there next May; who knows maybe I will get a chance to catch that.  I think I will put this on my wishlist right now.

An Amazing Village of Art that Satisfies All the Senses (check out their website)

DIBEKLIHAN
Yakakoy Cilek Caddesi,
Ortakent, BODRUM
Tel:  0532 527 7649

Romantic Sunset with Good Food

July 11 2010
Kadikalesi, Bodrum
It was the ending of a particularly windy day; we were suppose to have dinner with our friend Ali and his girlfriend Selen.  I am not sure who suggested it but Korfez Restaurant in Kadikalesi was the perfect choice for such a lovely evening.  My husband and I had dined here last year; we had arrived at a time when the sun was still up and chose to eat on the patio of the restaurant while I looked out longingly to the tables that were being setup for the dinner service, up front on the sand.  Our meal was good quality but not as memorable as the one we had on this particular evening, sitting at a table by the water, on the sand with the waves crashing vehemently all around us and the sun descending behind the hills of Kadikalesi... It was a magical evening... The food was great - typical Mediterranean- Aegean fare of wonderful mezes - all delicious but the 'Kopoglu' was the biggest hit at our table that night, and grilled fish we had at the suggestion of our server was wonderful as well.  We were told by another friend to ask if there was the secret specialty, squid prepared with its ink, but was not fortunate enough to run into this either time we were there; I will forever wonder about this until I can taste it for myself.  The biggest joke of the evening was about the waiter assuring us as we arrived that the weather would turn and the water would calm down, he said that he grew up in the area and knew the signs well... he was wrong but we took the random slight dousing as part of the charm of the whole experience.

Korfez restaurant is located in Kadikalesi, on the road between Turgutreis and Gumusluk.This tiny waterfront village  is one of my favorite places in Bodrum for its quaint, tranquil appeal that still retains its authentic pastoral quality.  The road between Turgutreis and Gumusluk is a winding road with lush flora that turns the whole panorama into a kaleidescope of pure colors, passing through small hamlets and resorts situated discreetly in the surrounding area.  As soon as you spot the 'bakkal' (grocery store) and the small mosque with the intricate, white minaret, you turn towards the water to reach a tiny square with a couple of hotels and restaurants.  There is a parking lot right in the middle and Korfez Restaurant is the first restaurant you will run into.  I highly recommend this place to anyone visiting the area, especially around sunset.

Video of Kadikalesi, Korfez Restaurant Review by a renown Turkish Gourmet

Korfez Restaurant
Kadikalesi Yalisi
Turgutreis - Bodrum
Tel:  0252 382 2757
       0542 311 4437

Last Two Dinners Out On the Town

We had two more free nights on our own left in Yahsi before we were to go to a hotel, to be with our friends for four days.   As much as these all inclusive establishments are convenient, I find them to be stifling as if I am losing my freedom somehow but this is the only way four families can get together in harmony so I go willingly.  This has been the reminder that has been on my mind…only two more nights to revel in the delights Bodrum has to offer.  I didn’t want to waste those precious nights by trying some new restaurant but wanted to go back to my favorites in order to savor them in conscious bliss and store the experiences in the recesses of my mind for the cold, hard winter days and nights of New Jersey.   So, we picked the two different establishments for two different reasons. 

Ever since the night of my son, Murat’s birthday dinner, in Yalikavak, I had been dreaming of O’ Sole mio and the incredible gluten-free pizza, Kutlu Bey prepared for me that night.  I was waiting for the opportunity to go back and it arrived on Saturday, as soon as Murat suggested we eat pizza.  I could already smell the wonderful aromas emanating from the tiny kitchen and feel my mouth start to water at the prospect of a fulfilling dining experience.  We arrived just as they were winding down from a huge order to-go to a yacht and were very lucky to find the place practically to ourselves; till the other patrons arrived, Guloren Hanim, the managing partner and Kutlu Bey Chef/ partner were able to chat with us as they took our order and later while we enjoyed our dinner.   This time, we just left the decision of what type of pizza to prepare to Kutlu Bey and we were not disappointed when he brought out a special pizza topped with freshly delivered imported hams and bacons from Italy and France.  But this wasn’t the extraordinary surprise in store for me that night; it came in the form of especially baked gluten-free garlic bread, same as the one my husband and son were having.  Not being left out makes me feel as happy as a kid…  The pizza was so good that it begged for a glass of red wine.  Everything that night, the green checkered table cloth, the roses in the terracotta vase, the red wine and the pizza on huge, white, round plates, even the art work displayed inside the shop were part of the perfect image worthy of a master artist.  We parted with the owners with wishes of seeing each other next summer and sharing email addresses and promises of keeping in touch.

Our next night’s dinner was just as gratifying for reasons besides the exceptional food.  My husband and I had gone out to eat at Palavra, a local restaurant in Yahsi which had been recommended by several of our friends; we were very happy with everything we tried. Palavra is a seafood restaurant that is situated right on the water with the tables setup on the sand and the sound of waves was the background music to our ears as we sipped our drinks and enjoyed excellent ‘mezes’; although I should actually say, while I sipped my ‘Raki’ (Turkish Ouzo) since my husband’s preferred beverage was Diet Coke, as usual.   When the waiter came to get our drink orders and I asked for a double ‘raki’, he suggested that I get a small bottle; when he saw me hesitate, he mentioned that they could put away the rest for the next time I was there.  Just the idea of having a bottle of ‘Raki’ with my name on it at a ‘meyhane’ (a drinking establishment) was so wicked that I had to do it.  We didn’t have any fish but we’ve been told it is just as great as their ‘mezes’.  We had eggplant salad, fava (broad bean paste), kopoglu – a local specialty (fried eggplant, peppers and tomatoes served in garlic yogurt), octopus salad, pilav with octopus, sea bass in mustard sauce, fried and grilled Calamari, and a shepherd’s salad (salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and onions with oil and lemon juice) – all fabulous… and wonderful accompaniments for my left over bottle of ‘Raki’.   They had baklava and ‘kalburabasti’ (a Turkish desert baked with flour and butter and then dunk in syrup) that Mehmet and Murat both raved about.  It’s definitely worth a trip into Yahsi for this dining extravaganza.

I can now go happily to my golden cage of open buffets and endless drinks knowing that I’ve already had the best.

Palavra Fish Restaurant  http://www.palavrabalik.com/tr/?main=restaurant

Ortakent Yahsi Belediyesi

Bodrum

Tel : (+90 252) 358 62 90
Gsm: (+90 532) 677 39 67

Gumusluk... Again...

An Art Studio on the way to Gumusluk...
Old windmills line the top of the hill as you climb up from Gumusluk to go to the main road between Bodrum and Turgutreis.  Unfortunately, there are very few of them left in the surrounding areas of Bodrum; these romantic relics were used to grind flour as late as the 70's.  Now, they can be found as souvenirs in gift shops.  This Studio built around an old windmill is very striking in the middle of the road, I hope to visit it one of these days.
 

Closeup of a restaurant on the main pedestrian street in Gumusluk... The main pedestrian street is lined with lots of quaint restaurants sitting on the water; on the other side of the street is their kitchens and refrigerators where their selection of 'meze' or fish are displayed for the customers to pick and choose from.

100% natural light fixtures made out of dried Gourd - this is a classic decorative object from this area of the country.  'Le Kabak' is a well-known brand that has its main shop in Derekoy, on the road to Gumusluk; there are at least two other similar shops past this one and it is a good idea to shop around before buying.

Morning Coffee Break turned into Major Road Trip

We are staying in Yahsi, a little seaside village of Bodrum.  Around here, every corner you turn is a new thrill, all the different bays have a different taste, a different feel to them; I have been planning to discover the other provinces in the area since I got here.  This morning I decided to take the opportunity of taking my mother-in-law out for coffee to go exploring. I put her in the passenger seat, started a commentary about our surroundings and began to drive.  There is road work going on between Bodrum and Ortakent and in order to avoid this I started to use the back-roads through Bitez, but I am not as familiar with the back roads for someone who is taking short cuts should be, ended up farther ahead of my intersection and didn't even realize it until I got into Bodrum.  I started off with the intention of going to Gundogan, but we found ourselves half way to the airport, totally north of the peninsula, on the road to Torba.  This turned out to be a pleasant surprise since the landscape around Torba is really beautiful and it's not as developed as other areas;  we could smell the pines surrounding us.

We past Torba and headed towards GolTurkbuku, this area has recently become very popular so I wasn't sure what to expect. All I know about Turkbuku is that it is the hangout of all Istanbul society and most of the big name hotels, restaurants or clubs have opened beaches and clubs here. So it was a big surprise to follow the signs for GolTurkbuku and find ourselves in a little village with humble guesthouses and motels.  I started driving into every little street I could find that headed in the direction of the water to find us a tea-garden or a cafe.  None of the narrow streets near the water had any available parking and the closest teahouse was quite a distance.  I finally found a large parking lot that belonged to a hotel, parked my car, helped my mother-in-law out of the car and headed straight for the tables set out in front of the yard.  When we questioned the parking attendant, we found out that we were actually in Golkoy and Turkbuku was the next bay over; the two municipalities together was called GolTurkbuku.  

The boats lined up before us advertised moonlight tours of different bays and coves.  There were small hotels and beaches lined up all along the shoreline.

We sat in the shade with a wonderful breeze and enjoyed our Turkish Coffee while watching the little bay and the people suntanning or swimming.  The sea seemed to be very clean and clear.  The combination name had me confused at first but now I realized that all the fuss must've been about Turkbuku.  Golkoy seemed like a lovely area, luckily, not spoiled yet, by overdeveloping.  After coffee, we took off to see if we could find Turkbuku.  The roads here have no logic to them, you go up and down hills and not necessarily end up where your sense of direction tells you to expect to end up but that's the beauty of driving around in such a place.  Getting lost is so much fun, you get to see all kinds of little streets and cute houses you would not normally get to see.  I really liked driving around the streets of Golkoy and taking photographs.  My only suggestion to anyone interested in coming here is to get in a vehicle and drive around, get lost and enjoy, you never know what will turn up around the next corner.

There were so many lovely homes with beatiful flowers on their doorsteps, I wasn't sure what to capture.  I am afraid the time of day and my Blackberry couldn't do justice to the essence of this charming place.

Finally, we made it to the main road and found our way into Turkbuku in a couple of minutes.  We drove down toward the shore to find the main pedestrian street by the water; it was open to cars at the time but we were informed that it would be closed in ten minutes, at noon.  It was getting hot out and I wanted to get my mother-in-law back home, this turned out to be just a scouting trip - we had to come back another time to explore Turkbuku.  Just as we were turning around I got a call from home, asking for tomatoes and lemons; fortunately today the bazaar was setup in Turkbuku. 

I ran in and out but not before taking a couple of pictures and buying a wooden spoon from a mobile vendor. He was calling out that he had the best 'Simsir Kasik' (Boxtree Spoon) I asked him about his spoons and why they were so expensive and he insured me that there was no way anything could happen to these best quality spoons.  I told him I could get them for 1 Lira in Istanbul while he was asking for 5.  With a huff, he finally pulled one out, stuck it in my bag and said 'Here you go, take it and go.'  I gave him all the change I had in my pocket and we said goodbye.  I have a thing for wooden spoons, I refuse to cook with anything else; I put this one in my suitcase as soon as I got home.  It is flat and suppose to be used to stir 'pilav' (Rice).  I will have to try it out to see if it really is as good as he says, because stirring 'pilav' is a risky business, it can get sticky.

We made our way back driving from Turkbuku to Yalikavak and then home to Yahsi again.  It was a nice road trip I hope to repeat again, hopefully this time using the shorter route so we will have more time to enjoy the view.

My Solution for an Empty Nest Syndrome.

I woke up feeling a little bereft this morning.  Both the boys were gone, Hasan had returned to New Jersey last week, Murat had left on a sailing trip for a week...it was just my husband, my mother-in-law, Bostan and I left in the house...  and today was Hasan's birthday too... So what do we do now, I asked myself, even before I got out of bed...  Since I was the first one out of bed, I moped around for a bit waiting for everyone to wake up. After a while I started to plan our breakfast, my brilliant solution to a mellow mood...  I would make eggs... something a little creative, maybe... Then my husband woke up and I asked him how he would like his eggs, his  response was 'Menemen' not at all surprising since this is his usual response to this question nine times out of ten.  'Menemen' is a Turkish invention that can be eaten for breakfast or for a meal since it is made with tomatoes and peppers and even at times, onions.  I am not sure if there is any one set recipe, as long as you add tomatoes and eggs.  I just go by whatever I have on hand at the moment or however the mood strikes me.  Here are the general guidelines:

'Menemen' (Eggs with tomatoes)

Olive oil
Eggs
Tomatoes
Peppers (Red or green)
Onion (Optional)
Parsley (Optional)
Cheese (Feta- Optional)
Salt and Pepper to taste

The following is how I prepared the eggs in the picture... you have free reign... go wild...

1.  I put 1 Tbspn of olive oil and 1 Tbspn vegetable oil in a pan and
2.  sautéd the diced red peppers  (1 big pepper)  meanwhile
3.  I put two big tomatoes in boiling water for two minutes (this will help to peel them very, very easily), took  them out, peeled and diced them;
4.  threw the tomatoes into the pan as well, keep on sautéing on low heat, till the liquid had evaporated from the tomatoes and only the oil was left with the vegetables in the pan - this takes about 10-15 minutes.
5.  I made little indentations in the tomato mixture and broke 5 whole eggs and 2 egg yolks into this.
6.  Closed the lid for a little bit and let it cook.
7.  I checked after a couple of minutes to see if the egg whites had started to cook- from now on everything depends on your taste- we don't like our eggs to be cooked too much so
8. when the eggs whites started look like they had started to set (Turned a white color from the clear liquid) I put my 1/2 cup of shredded feta cheese in at this point and cook until the cheese has melted,
9.  add the 2 Tbspn of chopped parsley and keep it on the heat for another minute and serve.

Afiyet Olsun...
Bon Apetite...

Note: If you want to add onions, add them with the peppers and cook them until they turn yellow.  You can use any kind of cheese but feta is the best suited one in my opinion.
Be forewarned, you will consume lots and lots of bread with this meal.  The best would be Turkish bread, of course, but a baguette or a sour dough will do fine as well.

Our Saturday Ritual in Turgutreis

Bodrum, Turkey

Most of my life I’ve felt like a visitor passing through without belonging to any place in particular; I would be forever getting ready for the next trip. When I was a teenager growing up in the States, I used to think that if we owned a summer house in Turkey, I would have a place and friends to call my own and feel a sense of normalcy somehow.  While most of my friends were envious of my life of jet setting across the Atlantic back and forth, I always envied their simple summer plans of going away to the same place to be with the same people, doing the same things.   Even having a family didn’t make a difference in my life, now I was moving the whole family back and forth. These were the thoughts I always had to contend with as I agonized over our summer plans every single year; we never were able create the stable atmosphere I had been longing for.    Maybe due to the fact that we now live in New Jersey, we were finally able to realize this lifelong dream of mine and get a house in Bodrum this summer.  Ironically, now it’s the boys who want to make plans of staying put and living like a normal teenager while we are dragging them here, for their own good.

I feel we have finally succeeded in creating the perfect atmosphere this summer of sharing good times with loved ones in one of the most beautiful parts of Turkey, a summer to remember and to repeat.  We feel at home and a part of a community that we are already making plans to return to next year; this is due in part to some simple rituals we have established as a part of our life here.  We go into Turgutreis every Saturday to have lunch, 'Manti' (Turkish Ravioli) especially prepared for us; Ali, the proprietor/chef asks us early on in the week, the only question of how many people it will be this Saturday.  So far, we have been there every week as a family with slight variations within the group.  This week our niece, Aydan, her husband, Yucel, my cousin, Ozlem, and her husband, Mehmet joined us.  Murat was suppose to leave for Marmaris, to go sailing,  but he just couldn’t go before he had his ‘Manti’ with the family and then my husband had to rush him into Bodrum to catch his bus.  

Another ritual is our shopping forays into the Turgutreis Saturday bazaar.  This week we had to pick up a couple of things for Murat to take with him on his trip so I took him to the textile part of the bazaar while Mehmet went to get our vegetables.  It was an incredibly hot and crowded day but still worth it for the photo opportunities it afforded if nothing else.  I have been checking out the colorful fabrics they have on display, trying to find excuses for buying the whole lot every week; I have to come up with something soon, since I won't get another chance after next week and I know I will be dreaming of these fabrics when I get home and kicking myself if I leave without buying anything.  Having a seventeen year old is not very conducive to this kind of frivolous shopping so I had to leave the bazaar without a single purchase this week as well.  I have some mean plans for next Saturday though, I just might get up at the break of dawn to beat the heat and the crowds and go crazy.  I have heard from my sister-in-law that the stands are setup before dawn, this I have to check out for myself and add to my list of unique experiences. 

Even as Murat was dragging me by the scruff of my neck, I was still able to get a couple of shots of the colorful array.

This is my favorite stand of table cloths and bedspreads and towels made from 100% natural cottons.  My newest obsession is the 'Pestamal', sarong-like cloths worn wrapped around in the Turkish Baths that absorb moisture like a regular towel and weigh next to nothing.  I have been buying them every time I go into the bazaar and I think I will take a dozen back with me to give as presents.  I have bought another variety of 'Pestamal' to use as a table cloth.  This place is a paradise for someone like me who is crazy enough to have a collection of textiles worthy of a seamstress.

After getting back across the street to the vegetable vendors, I couldn't resist taking more pictures of the stands there.  I am not sure if its the colors or the abundance of the array, I am totally fascinated with the displays. 

  

These are the dried vegetables sold by the spice vendors.  The dried eggplant is used to make a 'Dolma' using cracked wheat instead of rice with ground lamb and red pepper (according to taste, of course), in the winter months when they don't have the fresh vegetable.  The end result is something out of this world, to put a bit of sustenance in to anybody suffering in the cold, dreary winter months. 

I wonder if these textile would help to chase away the winter blues as well...